"Every generation laughs at the old fashions, but follows religiously the new." - Henry David Thoreau

I remember an episode in the once popular sitcom 'Ugly Betty' where Wilhelmina (the evil editor of fashion magazine Mode) is hiding behind trashy clothes she would not be seen dead in. I think she was either going through a rebellious "I don't care" phase or was sneaking around trying to appear inconspicuous. When her extremely image conscious assistant Mike expresses his utter shock at her ill-fitting lumpy jumpsuit, she confidently states that it could very well be the next trend. And sure enough we soon see the receptionist donning an identical outfit.

Now this episode was aired a couple of years back and could very well be regarded as one of those ancient predictions that suddenly become relevant in contemporary society (think Mayan). 2011 can aptly be termed as the year the jumpsuits attacked. They suddenly jumped out of nowhere into the wardrobe of every child, teenager and woman. Although I'm all for keeping with the current trends, I couldn't quite get my head across this one. To me jumpsuits have always been the standard attire of house painters and... convicts. No disrespect to them but they have never really been a popular source of fashion inspiration for me.

Sure they look good on models on the ramp but then again what doesn't? They could be wearing a hamburger costume and still exude appeal (mmmm extra cheese). I have seen some women carry off jumpsuits to the tee but there is not one single dress in the world that wouldn't make them look better. I couldn't quite figure out my distaste towards them till I realized the uncanny resemblance to nightsuits. The uniform pattern throughout from the top of your head (well, sort of) till the tips of your toes. It's like wearing a printed shirt with printed pants, like teaming hot pink with hot pink. Which most people would not do on their worst days. Then how does it make it acceptable if the two pieces in question are stitched together?? And how did whoever came up with this brilliant design (after spending a few hours in community service picking up trash in a bright orange jumpsuit?) convince the whole world of its brilliance? How did millions of women get sucked into the "chicness" of something they would have scorned at otherwise?

Designer Elsa Schiaparelli throws some light on how trends like this spread like wildfire, burning the originality inherent in every one of us:
"Women dress alike all over the world: they dress to be annoying to other women."
:-)

Scent and (non)sensibility

Perfumes are undoubtedly an integral aspect of our daily wardrobes. In addition to looking presentable, one strives not to be regarded as a stinky sock. Perfumes came into being originally as a substitute for baths- which at one point were a terrible hassle (no hot gushing showers immersing you in their play as soon as you step into your bathroom). Now that perfumes are not only used to mask body odour, we can be more picky. 

And picky I am, choosing the subtlest of the subtle, the mildest, the most beautiful scents with a hint of summer and prepare myself for a short whirlwind romance with the fragrance. Bright Crystal however had other plans. 

Bought in the summer of 2009 in a tiny 50 ml bottle, it was supposed to last for half a year and then duly replaced. It was sprinkled in generous amounts on a daily basis transforming sleepy mornings into a never-ending charade of sunshine. I enjoyed it immensely for the first 6 months, but "after a while you learn, even sunshine burns." I waited eagerly for the sweet liquid to sink down, but was dumbfounded to see that there was hardly a change in quantity since its first day out of the box. I decided to continue using it for a few more days, but the days turned into months, months turned into years. 

Spring 2011: 2/3rds of the gurgling liquid crystal remains intact. Maybe it's just an illusion? Maybe Versace created a bottomless bottle? Or maybe once I spray the perfume in the air, the tiny particles fall back into the container, thus preserving itself. The possibilities are infinite.

I believe that one day when the human race is extinct, Bright Crystal will rise to power blinding all the species left with its bright crystalline powers, and forcing submission. And you my dear readers (if you exist at all even now) will not be there to witness this apocalypse. 

I dream of Jean-i.e.

 Coco Chanel took great pains to make womens clothes comfortable and practical. Chanel replaced the large umbrellas people wore on their heads with small, pert hats.  She enabled women to get out of their starched petticoats and corsets and get into comfortable  pants- for purposes like horse riding, dancing or any other activity requiring movement. 

But what did we do with that? We created and improvised and came up with the worldwide popular item- skinny jeans. Now skinny jeans are pants no doubt, but in no way are they practical. You cannot go horse riding in them, you cannot run, and in some really tight varieties, you cannot even bend to pick up your pencil.

So why do we wear these? They look good undoubtedly, on most body types, flattering our curves,or lack of them. But is that really all we look for? For some of us (including me till recently), the answer would be yes. But when you live in a city where temperatures go upto 45 degrees celsius, you are bound to warm up to the idea of practicality at some point. Which is when I suddenly find myself in a pair of loose black cotton pants for two straight months. They are comfortable, look great when teamed with a tank top and go well with summer shoes. Problem solved?

Not quite. Comes a party or a formal event and I find myself wildly scavenging around in my closet for... yes, skinny jeans. Dresses, skirts and even high-waist shorts are all good options, but in my opinion not much can beat the appeal of jeans teamed with a pair of sky-high heels and a pretty top. So although we can substitute these glove-fit jeans to an extent, they prove to be indispensable. So I guess some discomforts are worth the suffering... so what if it cuts off blood circulation?

:-)

The most creative/unusual designs of 2010

Alexander McQueen for Lady Gaga

Poke-her-face: Lady Gaga dressed as herself at the music awards

Ear-plugged- a piece of the computer for the geek on the go

Roaring rage- Triceratop handbags by Gilles Deacon

Monsters Inc

Pretty as a flower?

Do not look into her eyes: Medusa Fashion, China

Fully loaded: Tights by Quency de Sardines

Dolce and Rihanna- design by D&G

Shoes to leave you feline purring satisfaction- design by Kobi Levi

"Blue is for boys, pink is for girls"

This phrase is so deeply engraved in our minds since the very beginning of our existence that the slightest deviation from it can send us hurling into a frenzy. Men wearing pinks and oranges instantly lead us to assume that they're homosexual. But have we ever considered the possibility that men may just like colours? That they could get bored of their wardrobe full of drab grays and blues? I hadn't till I came across this blog post on The Freelancer's fashion blog.

This era however calls for a change. Salmon pink shirts have gained a fair amount of popularity in recent years. Men are finally coming out of their gray shells and going much beyond their usual black and white world. And if one lets go of the age old stereotypes, one realizes how something as simple as bright orange socks can completely transform an otherwise typical colourless man's outfit.

There will always be men out there who will always be too scared to experiment with colour, lest they appear less manly. However, colour is not emasculating. It is only fair to let men evolve their fashion perspectives alongside, and in sync with womens' fluctuating tastes and trends.

In the end, colour is what paints a happy picture.

Adam- The first (scissor) Man

I recently came across a post by someone who had first handedly experienced the genius of Adam Saaks- the shirt cutter. She speaks about his great talent and personality. Saaks is a wardrobe stylist turned designer from Los Angeles. His claim to fame are his beautifully cut Ed Hardy t-shirts (in affiliation with Christian Audigier).

Using a pair of scissors as his sole designing tool, Adam Saaks creates a variety of designs ranging from geometrical shapes, horizontal cuts, butterflies, criss-crosses and anything else that might happen to strike his mind at a given point.

He works his magic with an effortless snip of the scissors and then uses intricate knots and symmetry to provide the final touches. All this at superhuman speed. It is a herculian task for the naked eye to follow the swiftness of his hands, as can be witnessed in this video.

Adam Saaks can be called a designer of the people. He does not simply create a bunch of designs and put them on display for sale. He likes to custom design his 'cutting' art for different clients according to what suits them. The most remarkable aspect of his creating process is that he transforms a simple t shirt into something that is sexy and glamorous, all while the t-shirt is still worn by the model/ client. This perhaps gives him a better feel of the desired product.

In a youtube video Saaks claimed that he "likes to see more skin." And skin is what he reveals as his scissors snaps apart at a harmless looking t-shirt into what seems like smithereens. One could never expect the piece of couture that emerges.

Although Adam Saaks' brilliance lies in the designs he creates live for a specific person, this is also his most major drawback, as it makes it challenging to own one of his 'saaks-y' masterpieces.

A Warne-ing to all

Australian Cricketer Shane Warne, after his spinning career is now trying his hand at fashion. He launched his mens wear collection in Australia in 2009, which was a success and has encouraged him to continue in the field. His success however may be as much a result of his celebrity status as his clothes.

After taking a look at his collection, one can't help but wonder why he did not stick to the cricket field. He has nothing new to offer in terms of casual wear. The same old t-shirts, shorts and cargoes. They could just as well have been from a thrift store, had the label 'Spinners by Shane Warne not been splashed across. Although Warne claims that he has a well rounded idea of clothing, as he has travelled all over the world and seen different types of fashion, he does not incorporate his observed uniqueness in any of his designs. No flaws can be pointed out in his clothing, but it evokes a feeling of 'been there, done that.'

Shane Warne however, is not going to back off. He is all set to expand to India in the coming year. Shane Warne is a powerful public figure and his image alone can help him to an extent. Whether people will invest in clothing just for his name is yet to be seen. Although the majority of people in Australia seem to absolutely love his clothes, his success as a designer cannot be attributed to just one collection and that too in his own country, where he assumes the stance of role model for many.

Many sportspersons have been migrating to the fashion industry in recent years. But they have been posing as models so far. Warne's attempt to run the show is commendable, seeing that he does not come from a fashion or an art background. But sometimes the basic qualifications are what is required the most.

Acme Dressing Kit (spare parts available)

How many of us have found the perfect dress and wished it was available in another colour? Or another pattern? Or simply got bored of it? In such scenarios, the investment we make in clothes comes haunting back. The solution to getting rid of this guilt? Customizable clothing.

Designer Sebastian Errazuriz has created a dress out of 120 zippers all of which can be unzipped and zipped back into countless designs. The dress can be anything you want it to be: long, short, low neck, high-neck, halter, tube; anything ranging from a casual day dress to a fancy evening gown. It can even be converted into a two-piece. With this one item in your wardrobe, you pretty much need nothing else.

Apart from Errazuriz, a number of other designers have been creating clothing that can be altered according to the customer's taste. We are talking way beyond personalised couture. Berber Soepboer, thinking along the same lines, launched her DIY (Do it yourself) Dress. Inspired by childrens' coloring books, this dress comes in basic patterns which have to be filled in with any desired colour. She has also added a number of buttons, the closing/opening of which can change the colour of the attire, or unravel a whole new pattern. Designer Fernando Brizio does something similar, where the colour scheme of the outfit can be changed with each wear.

Customizable clothing comes as a major breakthrough in fashion as for the first time, the buyer has paramount control over the final product. As such, the customer becomes the designer, making her/him the master of her/his clothing. Compromise on even the most trivial things is on its way to becoming an archaic notion of the past.

Clothing gets Ethical

Ethics form an integral part of everything, including fashion. Gone are the days when a mink coat was on the wishlist of every woman. Celebrities and even the common masses are dead against wearing something dead. Pamela Anderson, in an interview with The Hindu stated that "fashion should be fun, not fatal," and elaborated upon her views against wearing animal skin and fur. "The most innovative designers are refusing to work with animal skins, and they're proving that it's easy to create a look that kills without killing animals," she asserted.

The Anti Fur coalition is a worldwide one, triggered off by an ad launched by PETA featuring a naked picture of Chad Ochocinco. Pro skater Jason Ellis also stripped down for PETA in support of the same cause. The sentiments against animal cruelty are so strong all over that a crowd of concerned Israelis protested against fur for fashion on the streets of Tel Aviv on November 26.

Renowned fashion labels such as DKNY have become targets of PETA's anti-fur statement on their Facebook page. Fur items which were once considered a luxury, are now being condemned and for good reason. This shows the maturity we as a people have attained over the years. The desire to look good at the cost of innocent lives has finally come to an end. People are opting more and more for synthetic leather and fake animal skinned bags, as they have become more conscious.

A wrap around made out of synthetic fibres looks just the same as one made out of fox fur. The killing of fur-bearing animals was therefore always futile, not to mention cruel. Also, one can't deny that shoes made out of suede or plastic are considered just as stylish, if not more, than those made out of leather. A variety of the most beautiful (non animal) materials are now available for apparel and accessories. Dead animals do not belong in showbiz.

So, for those people who sit idle thinking that petitions and protests are a waste of time, this goes as a classic example against that kind of thinking. Awareness can and has altered the mindsets of people.

Is less really more?

For decades, fashion has come to be synonymous with showing more skin; plunging necklines, the mini-est of mini skirts, the skimpiest dresses. So much so, that some women while going for a job interview focus more on revealing skin to impress, rather than working on the skills required for the job in question. A blog titled 'The more skin you show, the less authoritative you become' by Judith Rasband showed this image of a woman who was offering her services as an expert consultant.

Needless to say, the focus of another person would constantly remain on her chest, rather than her face or what she has to say in her favour. This also gives a rather tainted image of the woman.

Even outside the professional sphere, revealing skin is not always equivalent to style. Boat necks, cowl necks and even turtle necks can make one look classy and fabulous when teamed with the right accessories. Not to say that low necklines are unattractive; when worn on suitable occasions and carried off with panache, they are anything but unattractive.

However, fashion is dressing up according to the situation and according to what suits oneself. Blindly following any trend is not going to get one anywhere. And showing skin is not going to get one anywhere, at least not professionally.

Yes, one needs to be presentable for an interview, but presenting all of oneself will only lead to a rather unpresentable and unpleasant scenario. Dressing in context is key.

Coffee- a timeless indulgence

Zeroing in on a stylishly dressed woman in Paris or Milan or New York or London, apart from her high heeled shoes and her pencil skirt, you will notice that in her hand will be strategically placed, a cup of her favorite latte. And then you will see that she is not the only one indulging in the aromatic goodness, but every single person around her has a cup too. People on the go, people lounging around or people dealing with tension. The consumption of coffee is at an all time high.

Coffee has become an integral part of our lives. We start the day with a freshly brewed cup. It is also what bonds us with others- what better to do on a first date than to go out for coffee? All nighters are almost always accompanied by mugs of the strongest arabica. The most magical property of a café noir is its ability to cure a deadly hangover. Coffee becomes a sort of companion with which we cherish the best moments of life, and also what we turn to during our worst times.

Coffee has gained more popularity in recent years than ever before. Although tea is the most popular beverage in the world, after water, coffee is catching up rapidly. Cappuccinos have become a kind of accessory, seen in the hands of every second person on the street in styrofoam cups.

One may wonder about the permanence of certain trends but coffee is very much in vogue and here to stay.

Styleash

An annual doggie show which is held in Davidson, North Carolina (USA) disproves the popular belief that fashion is limited only to the human species. The event in 2009 saw a number of dog lovers showcasing their beloved pooches in the finest and most unique of apparel and accessories.

The very first dog show was held in 1988, which then experienced a long period of no show and was later revived, in 2009. Candidates are not expected to be trained models, and are supposed to be on leashes at all times, in their owners' full controls. It is indeed a rare sight to watch dogs catwalk down a runway, in full swing.

Dressing up pets in unusual outfits is not a new concept. Tinkerbell was one of the canines who made doggie clothes popular as a trend, as owner Paris Hilton swooned over the 'cuteness' of it all and indulged in designer labels for the petite chihuahua.

In India too, dog coats are not an uncommon sight. Although they were first launched to beat the chill, they are now available in a variety of designs and colours- from girly pinks to macho army prints, highlighting on the characteristics of every individual mutt. Off shoulder sweaters seem to be all the rage amongst pugs and smaller dogs . Whereas Diego, my golden labrador grandly masquerades in a coat which says 'Bodyguard' on the back, doing justice to his brawny appearance.

The people of Davidson are obviously one step ahead, perhaps paving the path for Doggie fashion weeks in the future. If only designer Emilio Pucci gets a whiff of this, 'Poochie' by Pucci may just be the next big thing.

Music Access(ory)

Japanese designer Lee Won Jun has come up with the perfect gift for a woman- a MP3 player which doubles as an accessory. It consists of a large sleek gold hoop, and tiny gold loop earrings that go inside the ears, functioning as earphones.

Another one of those inventions teaming aspects of both fashion and technology.

Music is a form of escape for many. It is a popular pastime during travelling, and for some even during boring lectures. A wide variety of design and color in devices such as ipods and MP3 players is thus more than welcome. Won Jun's creation has provided scope for even music players to be personal and individualistic. The best part about his design? You can listen to music, lost in your own world, without anyone being aware of it. In their eyes, you will simply be a fashionista, with the most recent bling-bling hanging off your ears.

The perfect way to get noticed, without really getting noticed.

Practicality reigns runways this season

Dutch designers Viktor Horston and Rolf Snoeren baffled audiences while presenting their spring/summer 2011 collection with their surprisingly wearable designs. The duo approached classic pieces with a certain casual flair. The result was a mosaic of bright theatrical shirts with starched cuffs and collars, off shoulder dresses, button down "swing" shirts. The tone was monochromatic with blues and neutrals.

Viktor and Rolf have always received a tremendous amount of criticism and attention for their outrageous outfits, which are only fit for the ramp. They have however, always been praised for the show they put on. In their fall 2010 collection, they presented their layered concept: models were dressed in countless layers, which were then duly stripped off and used on other models. It essentially became more of a spectacle than a show.

Another of their collections featured tweed fox fur coats so large, that the models were almost toppling over due to the weight. Although interesting to look at, these weighty designs which were reminiscent of Harry Potter's Hagrid, could hardly be imagined as a means to escape the cold on a regular woman walking down the street.

Fashion of course must appeal to the eye- but unlike other forms of art, when it starts to defy practicality, it partially loses its purpose. Viktor and Rolf have now gone beyond their solely showy, yet remarkable designs to ones that viewers can aspire for. After all, what good is a beautiful dress that cannot be worn and envied?

"The Michelle Obama Effect"

"When dressed to go out, the final thing one should do is subract one accessory from the entire outfit"

-Coco Chanel

The first lady is someone who has always looked elegant and sophisticated. Her sense of style always lands her in the list of best dressed people in magazines like People, Vanity Fair, Vogue. But what makes her truly unique is her blend of street fashion with high end couture. She never looks overdressed, and maintains a kind of classy simplicity.

President Obama and her visit to India has been long awaited and prepared for. On the day of their visit to the Gandhi Memorial, Michelle Obama whipped up a concoction of a Dries Van Noten skirt with a simple fitted black blouse. A silver belt around her waist added an element of glamour to the whole outfit. Minimal, yet chic.

Ms Obama has helped boost sales of some of her preferred brands, simply by carrying them off beautifully. Between 2008 and 2009, she has caused an upside of a whopping $2.7 million to a few select brands and retailers. On the other hand, a rival brand experienced a loss of 0.4% during the same period.

In an article titled "The Michelle Obama Effect," Yermack wrote “The first lady’s influence may be tied to the fact that consumers know she’s not paid to wear what she does, whereas they may subconsciously discount models’ endorsements as inherently corrupt.” As the US President's wife, Ms Obama's influence on the masses is tremendous, as is her credibility. She is looked up to and respected.

Indian- American designer Naeem Khan claims that ever since Michelle Obama wore one of his designs to a dinner, his clothes have been flying off the shelves.

Michelle Obama has undoubtedly established herself as an internationally acknowledged fashion icon, one of the rare few who is completely unrelated to the fashion industry. Not only does she have the power vested in her as the First Lady, she also has the power to make or break a fashion brand. A powerful, impressive figure, she maintains the perfect balance.

It's a bug's life

Montreal based fashion designer Liz Vandal was asked to design costumes for the performers of Ovo, a show by Cirque du Soleil. The result was a variety of insect outfits, ranging from butterfly costumes to that of a cockroach. "Ovo" is a performance which takes the audience into the mysterious world of insects, where they live in harmony amongst each other, engaged in constant play, as well as the perils of life. The creators have even brought in a romantic angle.

Vandal has been fascinated by insects since childhood, and her elaborate study on the same helped her create apt costumes, which are at the same time "evocative." She attributes her attachment to creepy crawlies because of their "beauty, complexity, and organization." "Insects were here before we (humans) were here, and they will probably be here after we are gone, and we would die without them, " Vandal reflects.

In an interview between journalist Stephanie Green and Liz Vandal, they discussed insect based accessories to enhance the costumes of the performers. Accesories such as butterfly hair clips, ladybird brooches, lizard rings have been extremely popular with teens in the past, and continue to appeal to a large section of the youth. These knick knacks deviate from conventional jewellery, which consists mainly of designs revolving around hearts and flowers, and thus are highly individualistic. I myself own a pair of spider shaped earring that appear to be crawling up the ear when worn. There is a whole new dimension of thrill when it comes to insect inspired accesories and clothes. Think Spiderman.

Apart from her Ovo collection, Liz Vandal has created costumes for many artistic organisations in the last twenty years, the Washington Ballet being one of the prominent ones. She remains an independent, one-of-a-kind fashion designer.

The artistic duo, Guerra de La Paz consisiting of artists Alain Guerra and Neraldo De La Paz have come up with an innovative method of recycling old clothes. Rather than throwing away old worn out clothes, Guerra and La Paz transform them into completely new pieces of art work.

The idea behind these creations is not simply aesthetics, each work represents a social issue or idea or tells a story. Using old clothes as raw material makes their art truly eclectic and eco friendly. Gierra de La Paz have helped to keep the fashion in clothing intact even after the clothes have turned into colourful pieces of art.

Much like the Patta Chitra tradition of West Bengal, where artists use paintings to convey a specific message to the audience, or to narrate an event/occurence, Guerra De La Paz does the same through their cloth sculptures, creating an unusual blend of fashion, art and culture.

A pain in the...

Suffering tremendous amounts of pain in the name of fashion is definitely not a new concept. The victorian era was all about the long balloon skirts, and tight bodices. It was not uncommon for women to force themselves to squeeze into too small corsets. Chinese women used to practice the "art" of foot binding, ensuring that their feet remain tiny and dainty- desirable to men. Even renowned fashion designers such as Schiapparelli (more famously known as Chanel's rival) designed outfit after outfit in which women could barely walk.

Although fashion has become relatively more practical in recent times, a few designers continue to create designs going to the highest extents of discomfort. One of these culprits is The Virtual Shoe Museum.

Peep toes have been all the rage during the past couple of years, but the Virtual Shoe Museum took this to an altogether different level. Their designs form the epitome of impracticality. The designers have chosen to incorporate all the downsides of a tall shoe, while providing absolutely no protection to the foot.

You'd think that nobody would resort to these painful concoctions but you'd be wrong. Pop singer Lady Gaga, known for her outrageous ensembles fell flat on her face at the Heathrow Airport this June, thanks to her Noritaka Tatehana platform heel-less boots. Although posh spice Victoria Beckham developed bunion problems due to constant wear of skyscraper heels, this did not deter her from returning to wearing her beloved heels as soon as she recovered.

Everything comes at a price. Fashion included. But when it starts pinching beyond one's pocket, one cannot help but wonder whether this is indeed high fashion or a masochistic addiction, a modern day version of self inflicted torture.

Good enough to eat

Photographer Fulvio Bonavia recently presented his collection of footwear and accessories made from food products such as fish, pasta, fruit, cheese, candy. You name it. These items are not just aesthetically appealing but also trigger off a mouth watering reaction, making the product in question more desirable.

His collection is only for viewing pleasure as the food products used are perishable, thus making these pieces temporary works of art. What makes them exquisite is that they have all been modelled by hand, and are not mere photoshop products. Bonavio's shoot was done for the publishing of his book "A matter of taste," where he wants to portray to the reader his concept of fashion as food.

Bonavio's innovation no doubt comes from an evergrowing love for food and clothing. "If you do not want to wear it, eat it," he exclaims. A passion for food is a far thought on the minds of those associated with the fashion industry, as they are on a constant diet to remain fit. But Bonavio apart from candy and chocolates also makes use of health food such as salads, broccoli and red fruit, giving it a perfect balance. emphasizing on the importance of nutrition, while simultaneously maintaining the sheen.

The idea of fashion as only visual has been long been disproved by the concept of edible underwear, and Fulvio Bonavio simply takes it one step further. New generation fashion appeals to sight, sense, touch, smell as well as taste- creating an effervescent image of equipoise.